Stitching Tips
Hello!
My name is Bonnie Morrow and I am the owner of Bonnie's Cross Stitch Zone. Over the past few years, I have been publishing a monthly e-mail newsletter which contains a variety of information including stitching tips. I have received many request to re-send some of the tips that I have printed
and many of you have just started subscribing to my newsletter and have missed some really great tips. With this in mind, I have decided to add a new web page that includes, what I feel is, the best of the tips that have been in the past newsletters.
My monthly e-mail newsletter also features information about my Bargains of the Month and about all the new patterns and supplies that have been added to the website. Besides tips, the "In the Zone" features cross stitch ideas, the latest news in the industry and sometimes even a joke (to do with cross stitch, of course). If you would like to subscribe, just send me your e-mail address with "Subscribe" in the subject line.
My name is Bonnie Morrow and I am the owner of Bonnie's Cross Stitch Zone. Over the past few years, I have been publishing a monthly e-mail newsletter which contains a variety of information including stitching tips. I have received many request to re-send some of the tips that I have printed
and many of you have just started subscribing to my newsletter and have missed some really great tips. With this in mind, I have decided to add a new web page that includes, what I feel is, the best of the tips that have been in the past newsletters.
My monthly e-mail newsletter also features information about my Bargains of the Month and about all the new patterns and supplies that have been added to the website. Besides tips, the "In the Zone" features cross stitch ideas, the latest news in the industry and sometimes even a joke (to do with cross stitch, of course). If you would like to subscribe, just send me your e-mail address with "Subscribe" in the subject line.
Threading a Needle
Using Blending Filament
Backstitching
Colonial Knot
"Loner" Stitches
Stitching Upside-Down
Making a Grid on your Fabric
Stitching over 1 Thread on Evenweave Fabric
MORE TIPS TO COME!! Please check back again soon!
I recently found a great tip on threading a needle in the latest Janlynn catalogue. The tip comes from Pat Carson of Designs by Gloria & Pat fame. Here is the gist of the article:
"To thread the needle, the standard means of using a needle threader or to "lick and push" or pinching the thread over the needle then pushing through the eye, are okay. Watch out for the lipstick on the thread! An alternative is to "needle the thread". Lay the thread over the forefinger of the non-sewing hand. Align the eye of the needle with the thread. Press the eye of the needle down so that the thread is pushed up into the eye. Release one end of the thread and pull the needle toward you. The thread will rise in a loop through the eye. Pull the thread through. Tip: If the thread does not "pop" through the eye of the needle, turn it over. Did you know that the eye of a needle has a deep side and a shallow side?"
I have been using this method since I learned of it and it does work well! It has taken a bit of practice to get two strands
through but I am getting better at it. Most times I end up threading one strand through the eye at a time. You will find
great information on stitching on linen and how to add beads on the Designs by Gloria & Pat website.
There is nothing that can add more sparkle and pizzazz to your cross stitch than blending filament. And possibly nothing
more frustrating to work with! But if you know the trick to working with filament, you can enjoy stitching with it! If you
don't already know this tip, you are gonna love me for telling you!
The reason the filament tends to split and break is due to the needle sliding up and down on the blending filament as you
stitch. To stop this sliding action, knot the filament onto your needle. You can do this by following this easy threading
technique:
1. Cut the required length of blending filament and fold about 5 cm (2 inches) for one end.
2. Insert loop through eye of needle.
3. Pull loop over the point of the needle.
4. Tighten the loop at the end of the eye to secure the thread to the needle.
1. Cut the required length of blending filament and fold about 5 cm (2 inches) for one end.
2. Insert loop through eye of needle.
3. Pull loop over the point of the needle.
4. Tighten the loop at the end of the eye to secure the thread to the needle.
The number of strands of floss used for backstitching largely depends on the count of the fabric. Generally, you would
use 2 strands for 8.5 count waste canvas, 1 or 2 strands on 11 count Aida, and 1 strand on 14-, 16-, and -18 count Aida or
28-, 32-, and 36-count linen. Though more strands can be added depending on the effect you are looking for. When
stitching, be careful not to split stitches or fabric threads. Try using a smaller needle for backstitching. If you use a #24
needle for cross stitching, you might find it helpful to use a #26 or even a #28 tapestry needle for the backstitching. If
the holes are really crowded with the floss from cross stitching, you may want to try using a sharp needle for the
backstitching. Often, black is the colour of floss used for backstitching. But, sometimes you want a "softer" look for
your backstitching. You could use one of the following grays as an alternative: DMC #3021, 3787, 844, or 3799.
Almost everyone starts out using the standard backstitch. Up at 1, down at 2, up at 3, down at 4, etc
An alternative to this stitch is the "Double-running stitch". This is accomplished by making a regular running stitch as
shown here:
Obviously, this will leave blank spaces in between each stitch. To fill these spaces in, you would make a return "journey" as shown here:
My favourite style of backstitch is called the "running
backstitch". It combines both the previous two stitches and is shown here:
The advantages of this stitch are there are no second journeys and the amount of thread you use is lessened. In the real world of cross stitching, backstitch rarely follows a straight line for very long. Inevitably, your going to hit alot of corners and curves! This is where using a combination of the standard backstitch and the running backstitch really comes in handy - helping you to avoid stitches on the back of the fabric showing through to the front.
This is one of the best tips ever! I recently discovered a knot called the Colonial knot that can be used instead of the
French knot. It is much easier to make than the French knot and comes out the same size every time!! I have read that it
is slightly bigger than the French knot but I couldn't see any difference when I stitched them.
Basically, twist the needle counter clockwise around the thread. (This will make the thread lie clockwise around the needle.) Now wrap the thread around the point of the needle making a figure 8 with the thread. While holding the thread snugly around the needle, insert the tip of the needle a couple of threads away from where you originally came up, and go back down through the fabric. Make sure your fabric is taut when making this knot.
I would not be surprised if this didn't make sense to you. So here's a picture well worthy of a thousand words:
Basically, twist the needle counter clockwise around the thread. (This will make the thread lie clockwise around the needle.) Now wrap the thread around the point of the needle making a figure 8 with the thread. While holding the thread snugly around the needle, insert the tip of the needle a couple of threads away from where you originally came up, and go back down through the fabric. Make sure your fabric is taut when making this knot.
I would not be surprised if this didn't make sense to you. So here's a picture well worthy of a thousand words:
Just how are you suppose to deal with those odd little stitches that hang out all by themselves - not even close to any
other stitches? After all, the rules say: "do not jump more than four stitches" and " NEVER use knots." Well, the old
saying "rules are meant to be broken" applies to many thing in life... including cross stitch! When working on Aida, I
tend to break the first rule however this does not work so well with evenweave unless the floss colour is very close to the
colour of the fabric. A favourite trick of mine, when working with an even number of floss stands, is:
- anchor the floss using the "loop method"
- make the cross stitch
- secure the floss by running it under this stitch several times
- thread your needle with a single strand of floss
- stitch the first half of the cross stitch ( / ) leaving a tail on the backside of the work approximately 3 inches long
- stitch the first half again ( / ) - giving the look of two strands of floss
- stitch the second half of the cross stitch ( \ ) twice
- the single strand should now be at the back of the work. Tie a small knot using the two ends of floss. Trim the excess floss.
The nice thing about this method is you can use it for uneven number of strands of floss. In other words, if you are using
three strands for cross stitching, just stitch the first half three times and then stitch the second half three times. It is best
to do these stitches last - preferably after washing if possible.
Another suggestion I got from a customer of mine named Donna. She wrote: "On a large piece, I stitch everything but
the loners, then put a lightweight fabric such as muslin on the back. Matching the fabric to the linen, then carrying
threads across the back doesn't show."
At times, turning your cross stitch pattern and project upside down can simplify your stitching and keep the backside of
your work neater. Let me show you the first situation:
A much easier group of stitches to work with! And your stitches will be laying in the proper direction. This does not
work if you are only turning your work sideways! It only works when your turn your work a full one hundred and eighty
degrees so the the top of the work is at the bottom and the bottom is at the top. Remember to turn both your pattern and
your work upside down.
Please note: The red and green stitches I have used in the following illustrations are to make the directions easier to understand. You would just use one colour of floss.
Turning your work upside-down is also helpful in the following situation:
Turning your work upside-down is also helpful in the following situation:
In this situation, this is what I do:
- with your work right-side up, cross stitch the first three stitches in the top row
- drop down to the second row and work the first half stitches ( / ) to the end of the row. In this example, eleven half stitches
- complete the second half of the stitch ( \ ) on the eleventh stitch only (the one in red).
- now turn your work upside-down, drop down to the first row, and complete the cross stitches from the first row (the stitches in green).
- once you have finished these green stitches, turn your work right-side up again, and continue to complete the stitches ( \ ) in the second row as you normally would
This is very hard to understand just by reading these directions. But give it a try on a scrap piece of fabric, following the directions one step at a time, and you will see what I mean. It's a great trick!
This tip is one of the best timesavers I have ever heard of!! Make a grid on your fabric by "basting" a thread using a long
stitch every ten squares on Aida or every twenty threads on evenweave fabric that matches the grid on your pattern. Use
a different colour of floss than is used in your project so the grid will show but don't use a dark colour. Dark coloured
floss leaves little fibers behind which show up when you remove the basting. I offset the grid so the middle of my fabric
matchs with the middle of the pattern.
It took a couple of hours one evening to do all the basting but what a difference it makes!! It is well worth the hours to make the grid as I saved that much time as I cross stitch! I am a very cautious stitcher and usually triple count everything! (Yes, sometimes I do drive myself crazy... in case you were wondering.) Having the grid has eliminated the need to do this as you can see at a glance if you are in the right place. I have uploaded a picture of my work in progress so you can see what the grid looks like. You can see it at Gridding your Fabric.
Of course, once you are finished the stitching, you remove the grid. Depending on the pattern, sometimes I remove the grid as I work and other times I keep it in until the back stitching is finished - especially if it has really tricky back stitching. Be careful not to pull the threads of your cross stitches or back stitches when removing the grid! If you have "split" the thread used for the grid and it is pulling the cross stitch thread, just clip the grid thread close to the work and pull it through the other side.
Since I started using a grid, I can't go back to stitching without one!
It took a couple of hours one evening to do all the basting but what a difference it makes!! It is well worth the hours to make the grid as I saved that much time as I cross stitch! I am a very cautious stitcher and usually triple count everything! (Yes, sometimes I do drive myself crazy... in case you were wondering.) Having the grid has eliminated the need to do this as you can see at a glance if you are in the right place. I have uploaded a picture of my work in progress so you can see what the grid looks like. You can see it at Gridding your Fabric.
Of course, once you are finished the stitching, you remove the grid. Depending on the pattern, sometimes I remove the grid as I work and other times I keep it in until the back stitching is finished - especially if it has really tricky back stitching. Be careful not to pull the threads of your cross stitches or back stitches when removing the grid! If you have "split" the thread used for the grid and it is pulling the cross stitch thread, just clip the grid thread close to the work and pull it through the other side.
Since I started using a grid, I can't go back to stitching without one!
Awhile back, I received an email from Debbie from Illinois. She mentioned that she works on fabric with a count of 25
or higher and stitches over one thread. Some people refer to it as petit point . She wrote:
"My work is so small that I cannot use even the petite beads when called for. It makes changing the pattern to work interesting sometimes. I love the look though as most people in my home think the work is a painting until they get closer. Then you hear them exclaim, "Oh my, it is needlework!"
I have not tried stitching an entire project over one thread so I asked Debbie for more details. She graciously sent this information:
I use 2 strands of floss over a 25 count. With that count I use one strand for backstitching. This method makes the fabric very stiff and you will need to preplan so that you will not have difficulty in getting a hoop or whatever you use on the piece. If I am crazy enough to use 28 count, then I go to one strand and I use cotton sewing thread for the back stitch. I try both double and single thread depending on how it looks. I have a piece that won a state contest that is 32 count.
Never again. That was done with a magnifying glass and I could only work on it for short periods of time.
Debbie, you are an inspiration!! Thank you for sharing this information. I am definitely going to try doing a piece over one thread.
"My work is so small that I cannot use even the petite beads when called for. It makes changing the pattern to work interesting sometimes. I love the look though as most people in my home think the work is a painting until they get closer. Then you hear them exclaim, "Oh my, it is needlework!"
I have not tried stitching an entire project over one thread so I asked Debbie for more details. She graciously sent this information:
I use 2 strands of floss over a 25 count. With that count I use one strand for backstitching. This method makes the fabric very stiff and you will need to preplan so that you will not have difficulty in getting a hoop or whatever you use on the piece. If I am crazy enough to use 28 count, then I go to one strand and I use cotton sewing thread for the back stitch. I try both double and single thread depending on how it looks. I have a piece that won a state contest that is 32 count.
Never again. That was done with a magnifying glass and I could only work on it for short periods of time.
Debbie, you are an inspiration!! Thank you for sharing this information. I am definitely going to try doing a piece over one thread.
Bonnie's Cross Stitch Zone
PO Box 3009
Kamloops, BC V2C 6B7 Canada
E-mail: sales@crossstitchzone.com
Copyright © 2005 Bonnie's Cross Stitch Zone
Revised - October 31, 2005
PO Box 3009
Kamloops, BC V2C 6B7 Canada
E-mail: sales@crossstitchzone.com
Copyright © 2005 Bonnie's Cross Stitch Zone
Revised - October 31, 2005
